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              Tour 
                Aberfoyle 
                  
              
              "ABERFOYLE, 
                Parish in south-west extremity of Perthshire, with post-office 
                under Stirling, and a hotel 61/2 miles north-north-west of Bucklyvie 
                railway station. Length, 10 1/2 miles; breadth, 5 1/2 miles; area, 
                26,810 acres. Real property in 1880-81, £4579. Pop., qouad 
                civilia, 465; quoad sacra, 409. A bill was promoted in 1880 for 
                a railway, on a capital of £55,000, from the vicinity of 
                the hotel to a junction with the Forth and Clyde Railway between 
                Bucklyvie and Balfron. A glen, on the south-east border, contains 
                the hotel and the church; extends about 2 miles west-ward, with 
                a width of about 1/2 mile, and is traversed by the chief head-stream 
                of the river Forth. A pass at the glen's head figured much in 
                the raids of the Highland caterans, and was the scene of a victory 
                of Graham of Duchray over a body of Cromwell's troops. The general 
                surface is upland, and includes the Benvenue, Benchochan, and 
                some lesser mountains. Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Loch Achray 
                are on the northern border; Loch Drunkie is in the north-east 
                corner; and Lochs Chon and Ard are in the south-west. The aggregate 
                scenery is much diversified and richly picturesque, and many spots 
                figure graphically in Sir Walter Scott's Rob Roy, Waverly, and 
                Lady of the Lake; but the 'clachan' of his romance, on a site 
                about a mile west of the hotel, is now extinct. The public school 
                has about 65 scholars." 
                Wilson, Rev. John, The Gazetteer of Scotland, 1882. 
              This 
                is the most readily accessible truly Highland community, from 
                the south, with Glasgow only 30 miles by road, and Stirling 16. 
                It is consequently highly popular for visitors, and deservedly 
                so--indeed it is today becoming so for 'commuters' also. Itself 
                an attractive area, it is also the gateway to further delights. 
              There 
                are four distinct sections of Aberfoyle, two of them 2 miles apart--from 
                the Rob Roy Roadhouse area to the east, to the Milton on the west, 
                almost at the narrow foot of Loch Ard. The former is most visitors' 
                first sight of Aberfoyle, and here there has always been a mill 
                and cottages also, the mill-wheel still in position. Here too 
                is the golf-course. The other two sections are called the Clachan 
                and the Kirkton-- these all being typical old Scots divisions 
                of any community. Nowadays the whole village tends to get called 
                the Clachan of Aberfoyle; but this in fact used only to refer 
                to the group of cottages round the famous inn, which lay almost 
                a mile west of the present modern village--an inn haunted by Rob 
                Roy and generations of other MacGregors, corning down from Glen 
                Gyle, Inversnaid and so on. The present Bailie Nicol Jarvie Hotel 
                is the 'descendant' of this inn, though on a more easterly site, 
                and still retains the famed poker, really a plough coulter, with 
                which the doughty bailie laid about him, as in the scene immortalised 
                by Scott in his Rob Roy. This modern part of the village is not 
                particularly attractive, despite its fine setting--indeed it grew 
                up round the now-defunct railway station, and rather looks the 
                part. The station has gone, and its yard is now used as a large, 
                necessary but hardly handsome car-park, with facilities. Here 
                are good shops, tea-rooms, craft centres and the like.  
              The 
                Milton, to the west, still retains its old-time atmosphere, despite 
                some modern housing development. The school and modern church 
                are pleasantly placed on the rising ground between. 
              For 
                antiquities one has to take the road which turns south, at the 
                Bailie Nicol Jarvie. Here is the ancient, hump-backed and famous 
                bridge over the infant Forth, leading to the Kirkton--site of 
                a notable affray in 1671, when, at a christening of all things, 
                the Grahams of nearby Duchray came to blows with followers of 
                their far-out kinsman, the Earl of Airth, in typical Highland 
                feuding fashion. The old parish church, where the christening 
                took place, is a little farther on, and though now a ruin, still 
                retains its belfry. How old it was is uncertain, for it was rebuilt 
                in 1744 and repaired in 1839. It was an appendage of Inchmahome 
                Priory. At the door still are two heavy mort-safes, in the shape 
                of iron coffins, to foil body-snatchers of the Burke and Hare 
                type; and there are many old gravestones, including one, dated 
                1692, for the Reverend Robert Kirk, who translated the Psalms 
                into Gaelic verse--as well as distinguishing himself in more esoteric 
                ways. In this connection it is interesting to note that, as late 
                as the 1842 Gazetteer, it is declared that "everybody (in 
                the district) understands English, though the Gaelic is chiefly 
                in use . One wonders how many Gaelic-speakers there are in Aberfoyle 
                today? 
              The 
                road past the kirk is a cul-de-sac, ending in a number of woodland 
                tracks through the great planted Loch Ard Forest which clothes 
                all the foothills to the south--for this area is greatly invaded 
                by the Forestry Commission. Half a mile along, near the fork, 
                on rising ground now used for Forestry housing, is the site of 
                a good stone circle, which had ten stones, with a larger one in 
                the middle. To the east of the Kirkton rises the large modern 
                Covenanters' Inn, a well-known hotel whose name refers to the 
                20th, not 17th century Covenanters, who met here and drew up the 
                wording of their Scottish Covenant on self-government which attracted 
                over two million signatures, in 1949. Now, this is a great place 
                for pony-trekking--indeed everywhere you go in Aberfoyle area, 
                Highland garrons are in evidence. 
              The 
                road in the other direction, rising steeply behind the village 
                northwards, to the Trossachs, is a 'must' for all visitors. A 
                short way up, crowning an isolated knoll, is the magnificently-sited 
                Tea House, a notable piece of modern architecture, circular and 
                pillared all round, providing the most splendid views. Indeed 
                all this road, known as the Duke's Road, and threading the Duke's 
                Pass, gives vistas in all directions--the slate quarries on the 
                left being not too great an eyesore. The Duke, incidentally, was 
                a Graham one, of Montrose, descendant of the Great Marquis. The 
                large Achray Forest, which covers much of the area, diversifies 
                the vistas. Just beyond the highest point, about 80 feet (Aberfoyle 
                is at 65 feet) is seen the oddly named but attractive Loch Drunkie, 
                famous for red-fleshed trout. It is a strange geographical fact 
                that its north-eastern tip is within a quarter-mile of the shore 
                of Loch Vennacher, though with high ground between, and 200 feet 
                higher. The descent, on the north, to the head of Loch Achray 
                in the Trossachs, is fine, the foot of Loch Katrine being only 
                a mile to the west, and the head of Loch Vennacher 2 miles to 
                the east. 
              Another 
                very attractive road, though a private one, leads from the Kirkton 
                westwards through the Loch Ard Forest to Duchray and beyond, passing 
                by the picturesque wood-girt Lochan Spling. Duchray Castle, actually 
                in Stirlingshire, is a small but interesting tower-house of the 
                late 16th century, with older nucleus, oblong, with a circular 
                stair-tower and angle-turret. Unfortunately someone has 'gothicised' 
                the windows, to ill effect; but the little fortalice is still 
                delightful and kept in good order. In 1528 the laird was Buchanan 
                of that Ilk; but in 1569 it was sold to the Grahams, and remained 
                with that powerful family until modern times. The castle gave 
                shelter to Rob Roy, despite his anti-Graham bias, on an occasion 
                when the two Graham sisters managed to smuggle him out of the 
                back door while entertaining dragoon officers at the front. Earlier, 
                in 1653, Duchray was involved in the Earl of Glencairn's unsuccessful 
                battle against Monk's Cromwellian troops in the Pass of Aberfoyle. 
                After the Forty-five Rising, it was burned; which accounts for 
                the altered roof-line. 
              The 
                main B.829 road, west of Aberfoyle village, although a dead-end, 
                continues for 15 glorious miles through the mountains, to terminate 
                at Inversnaid on the east shore of Loch Lomond, passing Lochs 
                Ard, Chon, Katrine and Arklet, one of the finest scenic runs in 
                the Southern Highlands. 
                 
              If 
                you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized 
                small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me: 
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