Remote
lochs glitter amongst the gentle hills of Annandale and Eskdale,
south of which lie the fiat Solway marshes, where sea birds
gather on a huge nature reserve. The turbulent history of the
borderlands haunts this stretch of countryside. Fortresses and
castles stand in ruins after endless raids, and the memory of
Robert Bruce -- hero king of Scotland -- lingers on in the places
he visited.
Annan
Victorian
red-brick houses over-look banks of River Annan, where anglers
try for salmon and trout. Dismantled railway, now over-grown,
once led to bridge across Solway Firth. Locally born historian,
Thomas Carlyle, taught at Annan Academy in the 19th century.
Barr's
Hill
Network
of ditches and huge bank remain from Iron Age hill-fort, built
on narrow ridge between Annandale and Nithsdale.
Beattock
Hill
Narrow
road leads to top of Beattock Hill. Iron Age fort lies near
summit, with extensive views over Annandale. In days of steam,
trains laboured to climb dramatic 10 mile incline of Beattock
Bank.
Bruce's
Cave
Steep
footpath leads to cave above Kirtle Water where, according to
legend, Robert Bruce hid from the English invaders in 1306 and,
inspired by a spider trying again and again to spin its web,
carried on his struggle for independence.
Burnswark
Iron
Age defences extend 17 acres on windswept hilltop, looking out
to Solway Firth and Cumbrian coast. Remains of two Roman siege
camps on opposite hillside date from AD 155, and small Roman
fort dates from AD 140.
Caerlaverock
Castle
Triangular
fortress on shore of Solway Firth has mysterious origins. Built
during 1290s, but whether by English or Scots is unknown. Largely
destroyed 1320, rebuilt a few years later and demolished again
by Scots in 1357. Pink-sandstone gatehouse survives from castle
rebuilt 15th century, reduced to ruins in 1640. Finely carved
panels remain from mansion added to building in 1630s by Robert
Maxwell, 1st Earl of Nithsdale.
Caerlaverock
Nature Reserve
Barnacle
geese from Spitzbergen and large flocks of pink-footed and greylag
geese make this 13,000 acre area of salt marsh and foreshore
a notable bird sanctuary. Wild ducks and waders haunt creeks
and reed banks. Hides and observation towers.
Comlongon
Castle
Well-preserved
Great Hall, dungeons and fine bedrooms create medieval atmosphere
in 15th-century castle on Scottish border. Picnic area and nature
trail in surrounding woodland.
Craigcleuch
Scottish
Baronial mansion, 19th-century, houses Craigcleuch collection
of curiosities found by early Scottish explorers, including
carved coral and ivory, African sculptures, Chinese jade animals,
prehistoric ornaments and implements. Set in parkland overlooking
Esk valley, with views north between 'Gates of Eden' hills.
Devil's
Beef Tub
River
Annan flows down this 500ft deep hollow among four barrett hills
which look, according to Sir Walter Scott in his novel Red-gauntlet,
'as if they were laying their heads together to shut out the
daylight from the dark hollow space between them'.
Dryhope
Tower
Ruins
of stout 16th-century tower stand by northern shores of St Mar/s
loch. Once home of Mary Scott, ancestor of Sir Walter Scott.
Ecclefechan
Historian
Thomas Carlyle born 1795in 'Arched House' built by his father
and uncle, master masons. Restored as in his day, containing
papers and personal belongings.
Ewes
Hamlet
lying at foot of Eskdale hills. A 300-year-old bell hangs in
churchyard tree; put there for safety when old church was demolished,
stayed when the new church was built 1867. Fine views of Ewes
Water and Teviotdale.
Forest
of Ae
Road
and waymarked walks wind through woods and hills thick with
grass or bracken, some-times under trees bent over to meet one
another. Picnic site beside stream fringed by spruce and alder.
Gretna
Green
Village
close to the border with England where runaway couples could
seek quick marriages under easygoing Scottish law at the old
tollhouse or smithy, until the custom was banned in 1940. Old
Blacksmith's Shop, where wed-dings were performed by an 'anvil
priest', now a museum.
Grey
Mare's Tail
Path
leads to foot of this spectacular 200ft waterfall formed by
Tail Burn dropping from Loch Skene to join Moffat Water. Area
rich in wild flowers has herd of wild goats.
Hoddom
Castle
Sturdy
16th-century watchtower built by John Maxwell stands on hill
above site of 16th-century tower castle. Visitor centre is start
of riverside and woodland walks.
Langholm
Thriving
mills surround this textile centre where River Esk meets Wanchope
Water and Ewes Water; spanned by several bridges. Narrow, twisting
streets of old part contrast with 18th-century houses of 'new'
town across river. Ruined peel tower was home to the Armstrong
family, ancestors of astronaut Neil Armstrong -- first man on
the moon.
Lochmaben
Nature
reserve surrounds the creeper-clad ruins of a 14th-century castle,
reputed birthplace of Robert Bruce. Both James IV and Mary,
Queen of Scots visited castle. Look for greylag and pink-footed
geese in Castle and High-tae lochs. Statue near the town hail
recalls local man William Paterson, co-founder of Bank of England
in 1694.
Megget
Picturesque
valley transformed in 1983 by reservoir, stocked with trout.
Picnic areas with good viewpoints. Visitors can walk along top
of dam.
Moffat
Sheep-farming
centre, symbolized by ram statue in high street. Spring discovered
1633 made it popular spa. Robert Burns among those who came
to take waters. Baths Hall of 1827 now town hall. Local crafts
thrive at woollen mill.
Powfoot
Resort
created late 1700s at mouth of Pow Water. Sand yachting on beach.
Golf course. Kinmount gardens with lakeside walks and resident
geese.
Rammerscales
Manor
with Palladian frontage built 1760 for Dr James Mounsey, physician
to Tsarina Elizabeth of Russia. Annandale views, picnic site,
woodland walks and garden.
Ruthwell
Church
has late 7th-century cross, 18ft high, carved with figures and
runic verses from Anglo-Saxon poem The Dream of the Rood; possibly
written by Caedmon, a 7th-century monk and poet from Whitby
in Yorkshire. Small museum commemorates Henry Duncan in cottage
where he founded Scottish Savings Bank. Displays include bank
archives p.' and room settings of late 18th and early 19th centuries.
St
Mary's Loch
Sailing
and angling centre. Statue of local poet James Hogg (1770-1835)
stands above Tibbie Shiels Inn. Single-track road to beauty
spot of Talla Reservoir.
St
Mungo's Church
Shell
of church lies above River Annan. Mungo was 6th-century 'Apostle
of Strathclyde' who became Glasgow's patron saint.
Telford
Memorial
Recalls
engineer Thomas Telford, born 1757. As an apprentice he , worked
on the bridge at nearby Langholm.
Teviothead
Hamlet
with a churchyard memorial marking mass grave of border outlaw
Johnnie Armstrong and 36 of his men, sent to gallows with-out
trial by James V, 1530.
Torthorwald
Castle
This
15th-century fortress of the Kirkpatricks and later Carlyles
is an unsafe ruin. View it from road.
Tweedsmuir
Good
walking country where Talla Water meets Tweed. Church built
in 1874 has war memorial from oak tree planted 100 years earlier
by writer Sic Walter Scott. Covenantor's stone of 1685 lies
in the churchyard.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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