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Tour The Northern Coast Of Scotland
The
northern coast offers a rich variety of scenery, from tall storm-swept
cliffs to gentle sandy bays. The interior offers equally dramatic
contrasts between low-lying windswept bogs and dramatic mountain
peaks. Fishing boats shelter in the area's many harbours. Numerous
nature reserves protect the moorland's rich plant and animal life,
with sea birds to the fore.
Armadale
Hamlet
of crofters' cottages heated in winter by peat fires. Set in Armadale
Bay with fine view of sandy beach and sweep of shallow water.
Main road leads over two burns, Allt Beag and Armadale, both with
twin stone bridges, old and new.
Auckengill
John
Nicholson, 19th-century antiquarian, extensively studied this
region's ancient remains. Old school house opposite his home now
a museum of region's early human history, a useful starting point
for visiting brochs and other area sites.
Balnakeil
Old
Ministry of Defence early warning station is unlikely setting
for craft centre; visitors can watch various crafts, ranging from
book-binding and weaving to jewellery and candle-making. The ruined
church of 1619 has monument to Celtic bard Rob Donn.
Bettyhill
Crofting
centre and resort above Torrisdale Bay. To north is Farr Bay,
where precious stones can be found. Salmon fishing in River Naver
and trout in Loch Naver, 15 miles inland. Church dating from 18th
century houses museum of local history. Outside museum is Farr
Stone, an early Christian Celtic stone.
Canisbay
Village
with 19th-century church. Inside church is 1558 memorial to Jan
de Groot, who started ferry service to Orkney in 1496. When residing
in nearby Castle of Mey, the Queen Mother attends ser-vices at
Canisbay Church.
Cape
Wrath
Red-rock
headland rising 360ft from sea, topped by 7Oft light-house. The
Parbh -- 100 square miles of peat-bog, heather, scrub and rock
-- lies inland. Only link to cape from outside world is ferry
across Kyle of Durness. Cleit Dhubh, or 'Black Cliff, rises 850ft
from sea south-east of cape.
Castletown
Well-ordered
village built for men working in nearby quarries. Castletown's
stone has paved the streets of Glasgow and Edinburgh; stone was
sent out from neighbouring harbour of Castlehill--also built of
this stone.
Dounreay
Experimental
nuclear power station's 135ft steel dome dominates flat coastal
area. It was
world's first fast reactor to provide power for public use. Oounreay
Exhibition tells story of nuclear power and has guided tours.
Dunbeath
Harbour is home to small fishing fleet. Dunbeath Castle still
lived in but closed to public. Lhaidhay Caithness Croft Museum
displays typical 18th-century complex with house, byre and stable
all under one roof. Old village school houses heritage centre.
Duncansby
Head
Far
north-eastern tip of mainland where lighthouse stands high above
entrance to Pentland Firth.
Dunnet
Head
Most
northerly point of British mainland. Viewing platform pro-vides
3600 view over 300ft cliffs, taking in Cape Wrath and Duncansby.
Lighthouse stands below viewpoint, its walls battered by stones
thrown up by Pentland Firth in rough weather.
Durness
Crofting
village spread out along coast. Along shore is three-chambered
Smoo Cave. Its main chamber, over 200ft deep and 110ft wide, is
accessible by foot. Allt Smoo burn flows from moor-land and drops
80ft into deep pool inside second cavern.
Grey
Cairns of Camster
Well-preserved
burial chambers 2 miles north of Camster date from New Stone Age,
beginning 6,000 years ago. Visitors can crawl down passage into
chambers. Long cairn is nearly 200ft. Legless skeletons found
in round cairn.
Halkirk
Village
based on local quarries that mined stone for street paving. The
Fossil Centre at Mybster has displays on local flagstone industry.
Handa
Island Nature Reserve
Steep
cliffs on three sides of island packed with sea birds in summer.
Moorland interior is also home to variety of birds, from skuas
to golden plovers.
Harrow
Area's
best-known building is Castle of Mey, the Queen Mother's summer
residence. Its gardens open occasionally in summer. Castle Arms
Hotel, Mey, has royal photographs display. Quarries shipped flagstones
from harbour a century ago.
Hill
o' Many Stanes
Bronze
Age stone formation on hillock. Rows of small stones form a fan-like
formation possibly for astronomical purposes.
Invernaver
Nature
reserve with notable dwarf shrubs. Skelpick long barrow is 200ft
long with two burial chambers blocked by massive capstones. Remains
of Iron Age settlement with tower stand on rocky slope.
John
o'Groats
Claims
to be mainland Britain's most northerly village, named after founder
of ferry service to Orkney in 1496, Jan de Groot. Water mill established
1750 operates under original family.
Keiss
Harbour
is important crab and lobster centre. Keiss Castle, 16th century,
stands near private 18th-century castle. Three-mile stretch of
sand on Sinclair's Bay lies south.
Kinlochbervie
Area's
busiest fishing port has double harbour. Nearby Blairmore starts
trail to Sandwood Bay.
Kylestrome
Village
at meeting point of three lochs, Kylesku is across water. Boat
trip up Loch Glencoul gives views of Britain's highest water-fall,
650ft Eas a Chual Aluinn.
Lybster
Active
fishing community; broad street runs down to harbour with octagonal
lighthouse at its entrance. Church has finely carved Celtic cross.
Noss
Head
Rocky
point north of Wick is crowned by two ruins. Castle Girnigoe,
15th century, has keep on cliff edge. Castle Sinclair dates from
17th century.
Sandside
Bay
Broad
bay, with harbour of Fresgue to one side and village of Reay sheltering
behind dunes. Small whitewashed church of 1740 has gallery for
laird and family.
Sandwood
Bay
Pink,
pale sand and grassy dunes, usually deserted except for sea birds
and, legend has it, mermaids. Beach lies 4 miles north of Blairmore,
accessible by rough track. Swimming not advised.
Scrabster
Begun
as port for loading flagstones, town is now main ferry port for
Orkney. Path leads up past lighthouse to cliffs of Holborn Head.
Sailing club, sea angling.
Skirza
Iron
Age broch stands on a spur thrusting out from cliffs. Its hollow
walls are 14ft thick and enclose an interior 22ft across.
Thurso
Britain's
most northerly mainland town was laid out as Georgian 'new town'
by Sir John Sinclair. Ruined Church of St Peter dates back to
13th century. Thurso Castle, largely rebuilt, dates from 17th
century. Heritage museum.
Tongue
Village
has gabled church, built 1680. Its boxed wooden gallery was once
used by Mackay clan. Angling in Loch Loyal, 4 miles south. Ruined
14th-century Cais-teal Bharraich, built on Viking lookout spot.
Wick
Ancient
settlement, Vikings once sheltered here. Name comes from Norse
Vik, 'bay'. Town plan is medieval, but buildings are mostly 18th
century. Visitors can watch handmade glass being blown at Caithness
Glass.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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