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Tour
Fortingall In Highland Perthshire
Situated almost in the mouth of Glen Lyon, Fortingall is considered
to be one of the most interesting and picturesque villages in
all of Scotland. And behind and above the single attractive street
of thatched houses,
on the crest of a wooded escarpment, perches the site of Dun Gael,
a fort of unrecorded age. It is alleged, remarkably, that this
was the birthplace of no less than Pontius Pilate. If this seems
but another Scots Myth, here is the story. The father, a Roman
Officer, was sent on a mission of peace to Pictish King Metellanus,
whose seat was at this Dun Geal. Whether the envoy brought his
wife with him, or whether the mother of the child was a member
of Metallanus's household, we do not know. But here Pilate was
allegedly born.
But Fortingall can do even better. It also claims to have the
oldest piece of growing vegetation in Europe. In the churchyard
is the famous yew tree, dated at 3000 years of age. The church
is also of great interest. Behind the porch is Adamnan's font.
He was the Abbot of Iona in 697, and died in this area in 704.
Inside the building is a 7th century monk's bell, shaped like
a large alpine cow-bell. There are also a number of fragments
of Celtic stone carvings, on the chancel window-ledge.
To the east, near the church, is a Stone Circle of nine uprights
in groups of three; and there are new fewer than 14 circular forts
in the area. Sir James MacGregor, the famous Dean of Lismore,
was also Vicar of Fortingall, and died here in 1551. He compiled
the Book of the Dean of Lismore in which many of the Gaelic poems
of the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries are collected.
West from the village of Fortingall, only a mile up the glen,
is MacGregor's Leap, where in 1565, the Chief of the landless
Greglach made an incredible leap across the river chasm when pursued
by Campbell Bloodhounds. Two miles further up, there are a series
of spectacular waterfalls, as the Allt Da-gohb rushes down to
the floor of the glen.
At the next hamlet, Innerwick, there is the 18th century Glen
Lyon Parish Church. But the hub of the glen is a little farther
on, at Bridge of Balgie. Here the road forks, one branch turning
south-westwards to climb steeply over the shoulder of Ben Lawers
to Loch Tay. The other road continues up the glen, climbing to
avoid the lands of Meggernie Castle, a fine late 16th century
structure, whitewashed and set amidst ancient trees. It was built
by Cailean Gorach, or Mad Colin Campbell in 1580, who amongst
other exploits abducted the Countess of Erroll and held her there.
Another lady is said to haunt Meggernie. She was the wife of a
Menzies laird, who murdered her in a fit of jealously, and then
cut up her body into halves for better disposal. Perhaps for the
best, it her upper half which haunts the castle.
Three miles on, the Glen Lyon road passes Loch Cashlie where,
at the side of the road are a group of cairns and what appears
to be an ancient earth-house. As the head of the glen is neared,
or at least the road-end, the scenery becomes more bleak and treeless.
Beyond rear the mountains of, Ben Achallader and Heasgarnich,
and ranging to the south the fierce contours of the Tarmachan
mountains.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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