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Tour
The Wild Beauty Of Glen Lyon
One
of the most famous, yet rarely visited glens in all of the Highlands,
Glen Lyon is also one of the longest- at least for a mountain
cul-de-sac as opposed to a long rift valley. It opens from the
Appin of Dull, at Fortingall, and extends 25 miles westwards,
roughly parallel with Loch Tay to the south. Just past Loch Lyon,
it merges into a high pass which leads to the head of Glen Orchy.
Throughout that long distance it winds in wild beauty amongst
ever more solitary peaks, and varies as much in character, as
in width and height. Indeed, its constant variety, between gentle
beauty and fierce grandeur, is part of the great attraction of
Glen Lyon.
West from the village of Fortingall, only a mile up the glen,
is MacGregor's Leap, where in 1565, the Chief of the landless
Greglach made an incredible leap across the river chasm when pursued
by Campbell Bloodhounds. Two miles further up, there are a series
of spectacular waterfalls, as the Allt Da-gohb rushes down to
the floor of the glen.
At the next hamlet, Innerwick, there is the 18th century Glen
Lyon Parish Church. But the hub of the glen is a little farther
on, at Bridge of Balgie. Here the road forks, one branch turning
south-westwards to climb steeply over the shoulder of Ben Lawers
to Loch Tay. The other road continues up the glen, climbing to
avoid the lands of Meggernie Castle, a fine late 16th century
structure, whitewashed and set amidst ancient trees. It was built
by Cailean Gorach, or Mad Colin Campbell in 1580, who amongst
other exploits abducted the Countess of Erroll and held her there.
Another lady is said to haunt Meggernie. She was the wife of a
Menzies laird, who murdered her in a fit of jealously, and then
cut up her body into halves for better disposal. Perhaps for the
best, it her upper half which haunts the castle.
Three miles on, the Glen Lyon road passes Loch Cashlie where,
at the side of the road are a group of cairns and what appears
to be an ancient earth-house. As the head of the glen is neared,
or at least the road-end, the scenery becomes more bleak and treeless.
Beyond rear the mountains of, Ben Achallader and Heasgarnich,
and ranging to the south the fierce contours of the Tarmachan
mountains.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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