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Tour
The Orkney Islands
A
tour of Orkney's inhabited islands takes the traveller back through
man's history. Scattered across the fertile, flat land are countless
reminders of the people who have lived here. Stone Age communities
buried their dead in skillfully constructed tombs. Iron Age families
inhabited underground earth houses. Celtic Christians founded
monasteries, and Norse earls designed great halls.
Birsay
Ruins
of palace built by Earls of Orkney in late 16th century. Remains
of 7th and 8th-century Pictish settlement stand on Brough of Birsay
island, reached by foot at low tide. Ruins of Thorfinn the Mighty's
Romanesque church, shoreline ruins of his hall and outlines of
Nurse longhouses.
Blackhammer
One
of several Neolithic cairns on Rousay. Its megalithic burial chamber
is 47ft long and is split into seven separate stalls by standing
slabs.
Burgar
Hill
Atlantic
winds provide energy to power three wind turbine generators on
windswept Mainland hill-top. Visitor centre in summer.
Churchill
Barriers
Churchill
ordered these concrete causeways to be built in 1939 to block
off eastern approach to naval base at Scapa Flow. Some 250,000
tons of material were used, linking largest island of Mainland
with islands of Lamb Holm, Glims Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay.
Click
Mill
Small
turf-roofed building on Mainland, Houses Orkney's only working
corn mill, with wheel set horizontally, not vertically. Based
on Norse design, this type was used by islanders for centuries.
Signposted off 89057.
Cubbie
Roo's Castle
Small
keep on Wyre, surrounded by circular ditch, said to be Scotland's
earliest stone castle. Built in 12th century by Norse chief. In
graveyard is ruined chapel, possibly built by chief's son.
Cuween
Hill Cairn
Bones
of dogs and oxen were found along with human remains inside this
hillside Neolithic burial tomb, south of Finstown on Main-land.
Passage 18ft long leads to central chamber with adjoining smaller
cells.
Dwarfie
Stane
Stone
Age rock tomb cut into slab of sandstone, on Hoy. Passage leads
to two chambers. Legend says it is home to malevolent dwarf of
Norse sagas.
Egilsay
Round
tower of 12th-century Church of St Magnus soars above roofless
nave. Islanders prayed here well into 19th century.
Gurness
Broch
Dry-stone
tower, 2000 years old, stands on Mainland headland overlooking
Rousay. It had underground well-chamber, still visible today,
and upper gallery and floor. Later settlers built houses around
tower.
Holm
of Papa
Tiny
island with huge megalithic tomb. Main chamber over 75ft long
is adjoined by 14 smaller cells. No signs of life on island since
tomb was built.
Italian
Chapel
In
1943 Italian prisoners-of-war built unique chapel inside two Nissen
huts on Lamb Hoim using scrap metal, driftwood and con-crete.
Interior has medieval-style wall paintings and altarpiece. Facade
in traditional Italian style even has belfry.
Kirkwall
Busy
harbour on Mainland is capital of Orkneys. St Magnus's Cathedral
built in 1137 by Norse leader Rognvald, in memory of his murdered
uncle, Magnus. Nearby is 17th-century Earl's Palace, built for
2nd Earl of Orkney. Tankerness House is a 16th-century merchant's
home, now a local museum. Public library, founded 1683. is Scotland's
oldest.
Knap
of Howar
Whalebone
mallets and spatula have been unearthed on site of two well-built
stone structures on Papa Westray. About 5500 years old, they are
considered to be oldest standing dwellings in north-western Europe.
Loch
of Stenness
Remains
of three stone circles dominate Mainland horizon between Loch
of Harray and Loch of Stenness. Encircling ditch still visible
at Ring of Bookan. Ring of Brogar has 36 tall thin stones forming
a circle 21/2 acres in extent.
Maes
Howe
Massive
Mainland tomb, 115ft in diameter, with vaulted stone chamber and
adjoining smaller cells, built about 2500 BC. Later, Viking raiders
scratched messages into walls; one message alludes to finding
treasure.
Martello
Tower
Guarding
entrance to Longhope Sound at Harkness, Hoy, one of a pair of
towers built 1813 to protect British convoys in Longhope Sound
against French and American privateers.
Marwick
Head
Cliff-top
Mainland RSPB reserve supporting flocks of breeding cormorants,
kittiwakes, guillemots and razorbills. Reserve overlooks the spot
where Lord Kitchener's boat was sunk by German mines in 1916.
Monument to Kitchener within reserve.
Mid
Howe
Largest
of Orkneys' stalled cairns, on Rousay. Main chamber, 76ft long,
is divided into 12 stalls with central passage. Benches held human
remains, including 23 people buried about 2000 BC.
Noltland
Castle
Castle
on Westray was mainly built by Gilbert Balfour in 16th century.
Its 71 gun loops in walls and 7-shape were intended to protect
it from all sides.
North
Hoy Nature Reserve
Windswept
moorland and sea cliffs of this RSPB nature reserve make ideal
habitat for hundreds of birds, from kittiwakes to Arctic skuas.
Cliff formations include 450ft stack called Old Man of Hoy.
North
Ronaldsay
Most
northerly of isles of Orkneys is ringed by 6ft stone wall to protect
crops from sheep. Sheep survive on seaweed yet produce fine wool.
Prehistoric fort remains on southern coast.
Orkney
Farm and Folk Museum
Two
Mainland farmsteads show evolution of Orkney farm buildings over
centuries. Kirbuster is the only surviving farmhouse with hearth
in middle of floor. Corrigal's 19th-century house has gable fireplace
and wooden box beds. Traditional breeds of sheep and poultry.
Orkney
Wireless Museum
Collage
museum at St Margaret's Hope, South Ronaldsay; exhibits range
from early crystal set to modern transistor radio; wireless sets
from 1930s and old records.
Orphir
Church
Ruin
of 12th-century circular Mainland church overlooks Scapa Flow's
northern shore. Probably built by returned Crusader; only one
of its type in Scotland. Apse remains -- rest used to build 18th-century
Presbyterian structure.
Pierowall
Village
set in curve of sheltered bay on east coast of farming island
of Westray. The Norse leader Rognvald sailed here in 1136. Ruins
of medieval church has tombstones with finely carved inscriptions.
Rennibister
Earth House
Iron
Age earth house was discovered on Mainland in 1926. Its roof collapsed
under weight of farm threshing machine and revealed a floor strewn
with human bones. Corbelled roof was supported on four stone slabs.
Sanday
Green
island fringed by golden beaches. Human bones found in chambered
tomb at Quoyness suggest that people were living here over 4000
years ago.
Scapa
Flow
Eighty
square miles of sea enclosed by Mainland's south coast and isles
of Burray, South Ronaldasy, Flotta and Hoy. This natural harbour
was naval base during both world wars.
Skara
Brae
Buried
by sand for 4500 years, Stone Age Mainland village was discovered
in 1850 when storm tore sand away. Its roofless houses, linked
by covered passages, have central hearths, stone bed-frames and
a stone dresser. Paved courtyard where village council probably
met.
Stromness
Port
town in sheltered Mainland harbour. Single, narrow street whose
seaward houses have little jetties of their own. Fishermen offload
catches of lobster and crab. Museum illustrates maritime history
and island wildlife. Hudson's Bay Company recruiting site now
Pier Arts Centre.
Taversoe
Tuick
Room
for many bodies in this split-level Neolithic burial mound on
southern coast of Rousay. Upper entrance is at ground level, lower
one found through a 19ft sunken passage.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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